How to actually size infrared heaters for your bathroom
Let’s be honest: nobody likes stepping out of a hot shower into a freezing bathroom. But getting the heat right isn’t as simple as just buying the biggest heater you can find. If you overdo it, you’re basically sitting in a sauna. Do too little, and you’re still shivering. The trick is using recessed infrared heaters. Instead of trying to warm up all that damp, drafty air—which is kind of a losing battle—these things beam heat directly onto you. It feels like standing in a patch of sunlight. Picking the right power You’ve got to match the wattage to the size of the room. If you’re dealing with a tiny powder room (under 4m²), a 400W to 600W unit is plenty. Go any higher and you’ll bake the room in minutes. For your standard family bathroom (4m² to 8m²), I usually suggest something in the 800W to 1200W range. Then you have the big master suites or those fancy walk-in showers (over 8m²). For those, you can either go with one heavy-hitter at 1500W+ or, better yet, space out a few smaller lamps about 1.5 meters apart. That way, you don’t end up with one scorching spot and three cold corners. The ceiling height struggle Here’s the thing about infrared: the further away the heat source is, the weaker it feels. If you’ve got vaulted ceilings or a high foyer, a low-wattage lamp just won’t cut it. The heat will dissipate before it even hits the floor. You’ll need more power to feel that same cozy warmth when the ceiling is 3 meters up. But watch out. If your ceiling is low (under 2.2m), a 1500W lamp is way too much. It creates a “hot spot” that feels aggressive and uncomfortable. A quick warning on the wiring Before you start drilling, check your circuits. Infrared lamps pull a lot of power the second you flip the switch. If you put three 1200W units on one line, you’re hitting 3.6kW instantly. Make sure your wiring can handle that load. If the gauge is too thin, your voltage will drop, and your heaters just won’t put out the heat they’re supposed to.